The Canadian Finals Rodeo, held in November, is a massive international gathering of cowboys and cowgirls from across North America. Held over four days, the CFR is one of those classically western events that you can only find in very specific parts of the world.
I had a chance to attend both the Canadian Finals Rodeo and the smaller Farmfair that proceeded the main event. A friend invited me to the fair. She summed it up as "a bunch of cows and the guys who ride 'em." I've had limited experience with rodeos, but never with one as large, famous or international as the Canadian Finals. So, I figured, why not? I'm living in Canada, and I might as well soak up the local culture. Plus, the opportunity to mingle with real cowboys was just to good to pass up.
We started off at the Farmfair. It was a massive event in its own right, with different halls dedicated to everything and anything related to livestock. Stalls and pens were ordered in precise, tidy rows, with their somewhat messier occupants held within. There were all kinds of cows (so many breeds!), from fluffy white calves to massive black bulls. I witnessed the age old ritual of the Cow Shit, which involves a cow uncomfortably shifting around, followed by a lifting of then tail, and then the almost immediate projective and spraying brown liquid. I saw cute goats with their kids, quite a few beautiful horses, some ducks, chickens (which were absolutely ridiculous in the way that they pranced around their pen), and even a little clique of pigs. (Pig herd? Litter? Social unit of swine? Whatever works. All that matters is how cute the sight of a bunch of pigs is!)
We also strolled around and checked out the wide assortment of incredibly tacky wares for sale by an eclectic group of vendors. I saw a lot of really bad art, mostly involving cowboys, mustangs and cow skulls. You know, the usual kitschy fare that you find on the walls of seedy motels in Arizona. There were a few questionable objects for sale, such as 'authentic dream catchers' and 'aboriginal style jewelry.' There were quite a few food vendors, and I came very close to purchasing some Saskatoon berry syrup. To be honest, I kind of wish I had, in hindsight.
There was even a guy who was cooking a demo meal for a live audience. I can't remember what he was selling, but I did sample the salad he created on the spot. It was quite tasty, although I wasn't sure what the big deal was. Salad is, after all, not especially difficult to throw together.
The highlight of my evening was getting an autograph with Terry Grant, 'the Real Mantracker.' A friend once described him to me as a 'Canadian Sean Connery,' which strangely fits, somehow. He was formerly affiliated with a popular show here in Canada, Mantracker. I won't waste time here writing about the show, but click on the link if you want to know more about it. It's quite entertaining.
Terry was friendly, charming and very attractive in person. I think I ended up confessing my undying love for the Mantracker to all my friends for the rest of the night. It certainly became a popular joke for the evening.
After the Mantracker/cows/goats/tacky stuff for sale adventure at Farmfair, we headed over to the insanely crowded Canadian Finals Rodeo. The crowd was massive, energetic and definitely fans of all things Western. I felt distinctly out of place without a cowboy hat or boots. Even a plaid shirt would have helped me feel more at home.
For the rest of the evening, I sipped beers and watched the amazing spectacle that is the great North American rodeo. Barrel racing (fast!), bronco riding (amazing!), bareback (bold), team and steer roping (skillful!) and bull riding (anticlimactic, since almost no one was able to hang on long enough for a decent ride.) I loved every second of it. There was such a charge of energy in the stadium, the lights were bright, the air smelled faintly of sweat and horse flesh, and people were rowdy but respectful.
It was especially fun to watch all the different personalities of the animals. The calves and steer were especially funny; they had very distinct personas. Some were quite prissy, and would prance about with the conceited grace of an especially leggy catwalk model. Others were simply dignified, or bored. A few were mischievous, and seemed to relish in making humans run around after them.
As with any new cultural experiences, there were a few unexpected moments during the rodeo. I generally roll with the punches pretty well, but did find myself taken aback during the opening ceremony for the event. A rather jarring scene unfolded, in which giant one crosses slowly descended from the rafters during the patriotic strains of 'O, Canada.' While the overhead lights dimmed in the auditorium, the crosses were lit up with the furious white glow of spotlights. I felt like I was staring at the westernized version of a Liberace set. For a moment I thought I had accidentally fallen into some parallel universe featuring an Evangelical mega church. It took me quite a while to realize that this rousing display was, in fact, in honor of a very important holiday in Canada. Remembrance Day is a sacred tradition here, and treated with the utmost respect. In the context of the holiday, the crosses were symbolic of the grave markers over the bodies of buried veterans. A lovely gesture, but rather jarring when it has to be explained to you.
For anyone interested in going, you can sometimes get discount tickets. I'd definitely suggest the Farmfair, as well. Who can resist the sight of fluffy cows and little lambs with big brown eyes? You might even get to pet some, if you're lucky.
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